13 May 1988

Fashion and my dream of Paris

Before the Stasi reduced my life to arrest, interrogations and files, there was another part of my story: I was a trainee tailor, designing my own clothes and dreaming of a future in fashion.

Menswear — by a young man from Erfurt

During my training as an industrial tailor, I took a keen interest in menswear. I felt that it was neglected in East Germany, made many of my own clothes and wanted to become a fashion designer. My designs were meant to be bold but still wearable.

On 13 May 1988, the daily newspaper Junge Welt featured me and a suit I had designed under the headline “Fashion for men, by a man”. I had made the scarlet blazer with its black lining, gold buttons and lace handkerchief myself, as well as the striped trousers.

Junge Welt newspaper cutting about Mario Obst’s menswear design, 13 May 1988
Junge Welt, 13 May 1988. Cutting — click to open the complete newspaper page.

One of the prizewinners

I entered my design in the Junge Welt readers’ fashion show. Among 13 young men who made their own clothes, my design won an award. In the issue of 4 November 1988, the editors described my suit as “the most wearable design”.

The trousers were based on a basic pattern to which I added cuffs. I designed the jacket myself, with single welt pockets, generously fitted sleeves, shoulder pads, a zip and a contrasting lining. Following traditional tailoring methods, I made most of the suit by hand.

Newspaper cutting about Mario Obst’s prizewinning suit, Junge Welt, 4 November 1988
Junge Welt, 4 November 1988: my suit wins the award for the most wearable design.

A pattern so others could make my design

On 13 January 1989, my prizewinning design appeared again in the fashion supplement of Junge Welt, this time with drawings and a sewing pattern. The jury praised my idea for a suit in striped fabric for young men. For me, this publication was a special affirmation: my own idea had become a design that other people could make.

Junge Welt fashion supplement showing Mario Obst’s prizewinning design and sewing pattern, 13 January 1989
Junge Welt, 13 January 1989: my prizewinning design with a sewing pattern.

Why I wanted to go to Paris

This success strengthened my desire to think about fashion beyond East Germany’s narrow boundaries. To me, Paris was the city of fashion: a place where creativity, craftsmanship and a free life seemed to come together.

In East Berlin, I therefore applied for a trip to Paris through Jugendtourist, the travel agency of the East German youth organisation, the FDJ. My application was refused without any explanation. To me, it was more than a rejected travel request. It showed me once again that even a personal and professional dream depended on what the state allowed.

My wish to go to Paris and pursue a future in fashion was therefore closely bound up with my wish for freedom. A few weeks after the final publication of my prizewinning design, I was arrested on 14 February 1989 — two days before I intended to carry out my escape plan.